Is Laser Hair Removal Right for You?
Learn more about the risks and efficacy of laser hair removal on people with different hair colors, hair densities, hair thickness, and skin tones, as well as those with tattoos, vitiligo, moles, freckles, keloids, and androgen-related hormonal conditions.
Do you know the difference between laser and electrolysis hair removal?
Before you try to understand how hair and skin conditions impact candidacy for laser hair removal (LHR), it’s important to first understand how electrolysis hair removal (EHR) and LHR is different in the way it is administered and how the machines work.
If you are unsure, we recommend you view our page on LHR vs EHR »
Select Hair Type
Blonde, Red, Grey Hair? Thin Hair? Unique Skin Conditions?
Blonde Hair
Traditionally, the laser hair removal (LHR) industry, warned those with blonde hair against LHR because the technology relies on the presence of melanin in the hair at the base of the follicle. However as technology progressed, this narrative has shifted.
First the industry claimed if one dyed their hair a darker color, LHR would be successful on blonde hair. Then the invention of the Nd: YAG laser made it so you no longer have to dye the hair because its longer wavelengths are able to target the follicle without damaging the surrounding tissue.
Let’s debunk the first change in the narrative … if the point is to damage the follicle so the hair growth slows down, then how does dying the hair help this? If this were the case, those who dye their hair would never have to get their roots touched up. And if the dye did not impact the targeted location (the follicle), then how did the dye make a difference. Remember this, the follicle is beneath the surface of the skin and where new hair growth is initiated so we ask again, how did dying the hair make a difference at the follicle? Hmmm ?
Now for the second, and most recent narrative. If the longer wavelength makes it safer for the surrounding tissue, does this mean that all blonde hairs have enough melanin in the follicle to be detected by this new sensitive laser technology? While this is true for some blondes », laser still has significantly less success on finer hair than it does on coarse hair and we’ve never met a natural blonde with coarse hair. Have you?
Given these points, we continue to advise blondes to beware of laser without first understanding the conditions of their own hair, the type of laser being used and the expertise of the LHR professional.
However, we have really good news. You can still get electrolysis regardless of your hair color or thickness, and it will be 100% effective, safe and, once your treatment is complete, it will last forever!
Red + Grey Hair
Even with the advancement in laser technology over the last 60 years, red and grey hair are still challenge areas for LHR, so if you fall in this category, LHR is definitely not an option for you. However, don’t fret. Call your local electrologist and they will be able to help you no matter what your natural hair color is. If there are any hesitations, it will be from the limitations of the electrologist’s eyesight, and not from the limitations of the electrolysis technology or the science behind it.
Fine vs Coarse Hair
Lasers work best when there’s a high contrast between foreground, the skin’s surface, and background, the hair; which means, the lighter the skin and the darker the hair, the more successful the LHR treatment is.
Hair thickness pays a role in this equation too because the thicker the hair, the larger the diameter is and therefore the more melanin it has it it. Think of it this way, compare a toothpick with a pencil and ask yourself which one has more wood in it? With this analogy, you can begin to understand how LHR technology is limited when it comes to thinner hair.
However, with the progression of technology, there are lasers like the Nd: YAG that, with its longer wavelength, is significantly more sensitive to color and able to detect the presence of less melanin than older technologies like Alexandrite, Diode, IPL and Ruby lasers.
However, some of the limitations of older lasers are still an issue for Nd: YAG; in that, its success rate on fine hair is less than on coarse hair, and if the hair color is also lighter, then this rate reduces even more.
Tattoos, Vitiligo, Moles + Freckles
LHR’s dependency on the foreground, background contrast also limits it ability to treat people with hair over tattoos, skin impacted by vitiligo, hair in moles, and even densely freckled skin. There simply isn’t enough consistent contrast in these areas and people with these conditions are deemed non-candidates for LHR.
To be fair, electrologists shouldn’t, remove hair in a mole either without a doctors approval, but once given the ok, there are no additional risks to consider because electrolysis is not limited to the same high-contrast ratio limitations as LHR.
Keloids
Those with skin prone to chronic keloids should NOT seek either LHR or EHR, but if you do, be sure to get a doctor’s approval first, and then do a small test patch to see how the area heals before proceeding with a longer hair removal session.
It is critical you are honest about your health conditions when seeking any cosmetic or medical procedure, not just hair removal. Help us keep you safe.
What About Tanned, White Skin? Olive, Brown, or Black Skin?
Darker Skin
This brings us back to the conversation around the limitations of laser when there is a lack of high contrast between the skin color and hair color. Older laser technologies like Alexandrite, Diode, IPL and Ruby are still challenged when it comes to darker skin and we recommend avoiding them. However, the Nd: YAG laser technology is said to have much more success on darker skin because of its longer wavelength. We’ve also read and watched testimonials of LHR clients who swear the ND: YAG laser worked for them. Since we are not scientists nor engineers, nor clients of LHR, we will NOT begin to argue this point.
We do continue to warn you about the risk of being burned if your LHR professional uses the wrong laser technology and settings, and of the potential risk of increased hair growth on olive, brown and black skin. It’s called paradoxical hypertrichosis and it’s backed by documented scientific claims. Here is just one scientific study abstract » where you can read it for yourself.
Paradoxical Hypertrichosis
Paradoxical hypertrichosis (PH) is the increase in hair growth on parts of the body where it did not previously exist.
Scientific studies have uncovered that PH is an adverse side effect of LHR on olive, brown and black skin. These are skin types III, IV, V and VI on the Fitzpatrick Skin Scale » and studies conclude that PH is more prominent on the face and neck of women and the shoulders, back and chest, of men. Scientists are still unclear on exactly why this is happening, only how. They also found there may be a link to prominence on those with underlying hormone conditions » known to cause hirsutism. Unfortunately, all light pulses can turn your peach fuzz to dark, course hairs if administered using the wrong wavelength and settings.
We continue to caution you based on our own experiences with several olive to dark brown skinned clients who claim they have increased hair growth in or around an area previously treated with LHR. Hundreds of dollars later, and with circumstances worse off than when they started, they walk into our studio wishing they had known about the risk of PH, and for a second chance to make a different decision.
Dermatology Times on laser light induction »
Underlying Hormonal Conditions + Certain Medications
Hirsutism, male-patterned hair-growth, is common in women and affects 5 to 10 percent of those of childbearing age. Hirsutism is caused by an increase in the androgen hormone or imbalance between your male and female sex hormones, and can result in more terminal (dark, coarse) hairs in places you may not expect, like your cheeks, chin, neck and upper torso. Hirsutism can be caused by certain medications » as well as underlying hormonal conditions.
Those with Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS), Cushing’s Syndrome, Non-Classic Congenital Adrenal Hyperplasia (NCAH), or Androgen-Secreting Tumor, as well as those taking hormone supplements and corticosteroids, are said to be at greater risk of paradoxical hypertrichosis, and we caution you to avoid LHR in any of the danger zones ».
Special Note: Photosensitive medications increase the risk of burns and should be stopped at least one week prior to getting LHR. Most antihistamines, tetracycline antibiotics, and oral contraceptives can be photosensitive among other drugs », so if you take ay of them push your LHR treatment back a few weeks and check with your doctor before proceeding.
sources: healthline » , AEDIT », Good Housekeeping »
Summary of Our Message
We do believe there is a space for LHR in the hair removal industry. For those who are deemed candidates because of their high contrast ratio and wish to reduce the amount of hair they have so it’s easier to manage, and if they are willing to invest in a lifelong commitment to maintaining treatments, we say great. We are even in support of those with darker skin as long as an Nd: YAG laser is used, they do a test patch first, and the target areas are not among the PH danger zones. However for everyone else, please take our advice. You don’t have to get electrolysis, but use a different hair removal method other than LHR like shaving, waxing, sugaring, threading or depilatory creams to manage your unwanted hair.
We condemn those in the LHR industry who:
do not fully inform about the risk of PH when LHR is administered on the danger zones of those with olive, brown and black skin, as well as those with underlying hormonal conditions known to cause hirsutism.
claim their solution is permanent when it’s not, or when they claim electrolysis isn’t permanent when it is in fact the only FDA approved method of permanent hair removal. We’ve even had clients come to us claiming their dermatologist said electrolysis is antiquated, no one does it anymore, and that it doesn’t work.
have not taken the time to self-educate about the different types of laser technologies so they know which ones work on different hair and skin conditions, and then advise their patients responsibly based on their unique hair and skin conditions.
However, what burns us up the the most is that in most states LHR professionals must be medically licensed, like a doctor or a nurse, to administer LHR treatments. As a group of people who are ethically and legally bound to provide and advise on the best care available to their patients, their failure to protect them is mind bowing and incredibly disappointing.
Our hearts ache when first-time clients come to us in tears with burns on their skin because an LHR professional used the wrong machine or the wrong settings. Clients also come in after months or years having already spent hundreds of dollars on LHR claiming to have new hair growth in areas in or around the treated area they never had before like their cheeks, chin or neck.
Being an electrolysis company started by an African-American woman, it’s unnerving to watch the LHR industry turn a blind eye to this alarming scientific fact; especially when it’s mostly affecting people of color. This is what’s behind our drive to something about it.
Take a stand with us to restrict the LHR industry from making false claims and from omitting the risks of LHR so this does not keep happening to others. And to those of you in the LHR industry who are practicing responsibly, help protect the integrity of your profession by calling out those who are not as ethical. We ask that you join our forces and sign our petition!
Fitzpatrick Skin Table
Developed in 1975, this system classifies skin type according to the amount of pigment your skin has and your skin’s reaction to sun exposure (light waves). This information can not only help predict your overall risk of sun damage and skin cancer, but it is also used to assist professionals and customers when deciding on the best make-up, and other skin-related regimens. source: Healthline »
Since lasers are pulsed light waves at varying wavelengths, the Fitzpatrick skin table is also reference by technicians when determining which laser types are best suited for specific skin tones and hair colors. Therefore, it’s also critical for potential clients to understand these important factors when considering laser as a hair removal solution.
Laser Types
If you decide laser hair removal is the best path for you, make sure you’ve also considered which type of laser is best for your skin type, hair color and that you are not taking unforeseen risks like paradoxical hypertrichosis and burned, damaged skin.
“It is your decisions, and not your conditions, that determine you destiny.”